Ocean Surface Waves:Their Physics and Prediction: 36 by Stanislaw R Massel

By Stanislaw R Massel

The publication is a longer and up-to-date version of the e-book released in 1996 below an analogous name (World clinical, ISBN 9810216866). It features a very finished and wide examine on floor ocean waves prompted via wind, earthquakes and attainable landslides and asteroids affects. the elemental mathematical rules, actual description of the saw phenomena, useful forecasting strategies of some of the wave parameters and prolonged program in ocean and coastal engineering, are mentioned from the stochastic element of view.

All chapters have been thoroughly rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries that have been released because the first variation in 1996. particularly, new chapters are extra on very fascinating and modern themes resembling: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water flow in porous sea backside precipitated through floor waves, and waves propagation via mangrove forests.

In phrases of numerical modeling, the cutting-edge of the trendy technique of wave prediction types WAM and SWAN, in addition to of the excessive refined satellite tv for pc equipment of waves size and smooth equipment of sign processing, together with wavelets strategy and Hilbert rework technique are provided. The e-book is supplemented with a longer checklist of suitable and prolonged, modern bibliography, topic index and writer index.


  • Introduction
  • Interaction of Wind and Ocean Waves
  • Spectral homes of Ocean Waves
  • Statistical homes of Ocean Waves
  • Properties of Breaking Waves
  • Prediction of Waves in Deep Water
  • Prediction of Waves in Shallow Water
  • Freak Waves
  • Tsunami
  • Waves at Islands and Coral Reefs
  • Waves in Mangrove Forests
  • Wave-induced strain and stream in a Porous Bottom
  • Wave Observations and long term Statistics
  • Wave size Techniques
  • Data Processing and Simulation Techniques

Readership: Graduate scholars, execs and researchers, together with marine examine expert, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography.

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